Nissan xtrail 2.2dCi 2006

Hello.
This auction is for my Nissan xtrail as described above.
Currently its off the road due to problems as yet unfixed. The car isn't quite ready yet for the scrap yard, in fact, with the work done it should have a good bit of life left in it - I've just ran out of money for, and patience with it.
Just before Christmas last year it started playing up, jerky power loss on acceleration, it didn't happen often enough to be an issue but soon other faults appeared, the engine would suffer from a loss of power and a vibration on idle. Turning it off and leaving it for a while seemed it fix that until it basically went that way one day and stayed that way. At that point as a first action I fitted a new fuel filter - to no avail.
What I've done since.
In to the garage who checked timing chains (they seemed ok - the marks were within acceptable parameters (apparently) but they couldn't check them all without howking the engine out of the car completely) and replaced the crank shaft position sensor. Car was ok for a day and a half then dropped back in to power loss mode and vibrate on idle. (Cost £360.)
Replaced Suction Control Valve on high pressure fuel pump. (Cost £150.)
All to no avail.
(I sighed heavily.)
It then went into a Nissan dealership to have an ECU reset and fuel pump reprogram done - to no avail. They diagnosed a flywheel or timing issue. (Cost £120.)
(I groaned out loud.)
Replaced dual mass fly wheel and crank shaft position sensor. (Also replacing the clutch while they were in there.)
That stopped the vibration, the flywheel was definitely goosed - I saw it in at least three bits - but unfortunately, no wait - that isn't the right word - it infuriatingly did not fix the power loss.
(I burst into tears, I'm joking, I didn't but it was close because that last load of work cost £771 - not including the cost of the flywheel.)
All the faults these cars generally go down with have been dealt with (the main ones being SCV and rubbishy dual mass fly wheel problems.) The only thing left to do is replace the timing chains. Cost to buy on here - £200, engine needs to come out to do the work though. Bear in mind the engine fault code P0335 is still showing and the Nissan dealership's advice (do the fly wheel and hope for the best, then do the timing if necessary.) This car shouldn't be scrapped and should have plenty of life left to it - its solid in every other respect; I've just ran out of patience with it.
Other new bits.
New battery
Rear brakes done last MOT (Feb 14) Front brakes done last August.
Wheel bearing also done Feb MOT (Another common complaint with these cars.)
Four nearly new winter tires fitted last year, they've done maybe 1000 miles? (Also cheaper than the usual tires so were left on. Website avail on request.)
Oil & oil filter done two months ago (it had been over filled but the change didn't clear the problem.)
Other than that, its moderately clean inside but does have a few blemishes on the outside, most notably on the front bumper where I drove into a tennis court and running along the driver's side underside, the trim came off while I drove over a boulder in Fort Augustus. The latter is not really noticeable unless you're a bit of a jobsworth or 1 foot tall because its mostly on the bottom-side of the car.
(CD player, climate control, aircon, cruise control, central locking, alarm immob, two keys, Parrot hands free Bluetooth phone fitted by previous owner.)
I've had it for three years and I haven't even finished paying off the loan I took out to buy the fu- umm, vehicle. (Its a loan, there is no finance on it.)
If you're looking for something you can drive away - I suppose you could buy it, you'd be driving away quite slowly though because it only manages about fifty mph and gets there painfully slowly - also - if you live uphill from me, it'll take even longer. (Although on the upside, if you live down hill)
Probably best bought by someone who can replace the timing chains themselves or knows someone who can, once done you should have a decent car good to go for another hundred thousand miles. It goes without saying, if someone buys it, lifts the bonnet and tugs on a pipe & pokes at some wires thus fixing it completely - I'll be a bit miffed. Since we've pretty much tugged and poked everything on the off-chance - equally though - it might go that way.
I did have a reserve on but have set a minimum bid instead because its still a decent vehicle with all the usual faults that occur now fixed.
If you have any questions (or know how to fix it) don't hesitate to ask (or say.) This is a reluctant sale of what has otherwise been a decent vehicle.
Thanks
Paul.
(I'm relisting the car after wanting to check the SCV - when we replaced it, we put it on the other way round - we turned it round but it made no difference. We also checked the turbo although with out actually removing it - it'll be a job and a half - and can say the vanes on the intercooler side are fine and from what we could see, there is no metal or anything in there - it looked fine. I've also noticed the battery is discharging over time, I've been running it two or three times a week but if I leave it longer the battery goes flat - its brand new so I suspect there may be an electrical fault which may have something to do with the over all problem as described above.
I did have a reserve on it last time, I'm not sure what the point is to be honest. So I've set the minimum bid at exactly the same amount I've still got left on the loan as of today. This is a decent car with all the things that normally go wrong already fixed - it just has this scunner of a problem and I have no patience or money left.)

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